colour and how to wear it

Everything we wear is a choice, or a result of several choices, whether the final choice is yours or not. On a conscious or subconscious level, you probably choose what you have, and what you buy. Then you decide if there is room in your wardrobe to keep it, and finally you choose to wear it, or not, as is often the case. Because, we all have our likes and dislikes, your personal choices will undoubtedly vary from those of your friends and family. When you get clarity around your preferences you will find it easier not to be swayed by current trends or the opinions of others.

Choice can be obvious or subtle. “Will my bum look big in this?” is a very familiar question that we have all heard but has probably never actually been asked. However, whatever your current body size and shape, you will probably be able to relate to the abstract idea in some way. More subtle questions to ask yourself might involve worrying about the dress-code at an event, being over or underdressed, and looking too dull or too extravagant. Colour is probably the easiest and most obvious tool in your creative arsenal to find answers to many of these points.

So, what sort of message do you want to send via your image and choice of clothes? Whether you are at home, in the ‘office’, meeting a client, seeing a friend or on a shopping trip, because dressing has become less formal, the same clothes could probably work for all these occasions. However, there are some tweaks you can easily make to feel your best in any given circumstance. Colour can change how you feel about yourself, it can alter your mood, as well as that of the people you are with. Whether it is something that is on your conscious radar or not, we are all programmed (either by nature or nurture) to recognise some broad associations around colour.

expectations

In business and in our social life, we have an expectation that solicitors will be wearing black, as will mourners at a funeral. Wedding dresses will be in a variation of white, clowns will be brightly coloured, and ballerinas will dance in pink. If you mention any one of these groups to anyone, their mental image will not be much different from yours, or that of anyone else. These examples I have given are all very stark and probably very obvious. For most women, for most occasions, there will be lots of sartorial leeway, with no particular design or colour ‘code’ to follow. In fashion and in many other areas of design, women have so much choice. Historically, the use of colour and design was shared between the sexes, think of the Pharaohs, or the Dandies of the 18th century. However, during the 20th/21st centuries, women have had so much more choice than men, although this is beginning to change again with colour becoming far more common in men’s dressing.

As a woman, whether this choice is displayed in pattern or texture, it is colour that remains the most visible factor. Limitless choice can often appear more daunting than having a restricted palette. Knowing what looks good on you is important. Perhaps you see your personality reflected in colours that are softly pink and feminine, or solid professional navy, do you like bright, sunny and springlike, or rustic, grounded and earthy. As women, the vast array of choice means that you have the ability to subtly reinforce or change your message using colour. So, do you have a favourite colour? Do you stick to a few colours or do you have a multicoloured collection? Do you prefer a muted palette, or are you happy in bright and flamboyant shades? What worked for you last year, might not be your go-to choice this year, as your tastes evolve. However, building a collection of clothes that reflect your current preferences can say more about you than just your fashion tastes.

the seasons

colour theory for beginners

The seasonal method is a way of making colours and shades more user friendly for your clothing choices, but colour is so much more than a series of swatches. The first thing to consider on this subject is that colour is a property of the light reflected by the objects it reaches, it is not a property of the objects themselves. In basic terms this means that white objects appear to be white because they reflect all the available light, and black objects appear black because they absorb all the light. So, the colour that an object appears to us is a property of the light that’s being reflected back to us off that object. The ‘colour’ is a product of how our eyes interpret that light through a series of cones and rods that work together to create our visual capacity.

When light enters our eyes it strikes a cone, (this part of our eye receives light through a series of rods and cones), it triggers the release of a chemical transmitter which begins the journey of electrical messages which go to the brain and eventually the hypothalamus. The hypothalamus together with the pituitary gland influences metabolism, appetite, water regulation, sleep, temperature, nervous system and sexual and reproductive function.  So, it would be fair to say that colour is not just for decoration, colour has a physiological effect on us.

Because colour is not an absolute, your impression of a shade can change because of different juxtapositions. For example, if you put turquoise next to blue it will look greener, and if you put the same colour with green, it will appear more blue. To use colour in a striking way, colours are often used with a complimentary shade on the colour wheel. There is an immense amount involved when you are thinking about how you personally like to dress, so I am not even going to try to incorporate everything in this piece. However, I hope to give you some thoughts and inspiration and encourage you to look further into a fascinating subject, rather than just taking colour for granted.

We have seen that the ‘seasonal’ colour analysis system considers tones of colour are deemed to be beneficial or draining to a particular complexion. In reality, most people can wear most colours, the exception being black and white. It is the shade of colour that can make all the difference. There is a shade of red to suit everyone, and a green and even a yellow! Whether you adhere to this thinking or not, there is a basic theory behind each broad colour family. The meanings and the significance or colour are undeniable, so why not get colour to work well for you? The following is a short introduction into the rainbow of colours that will be at the core of most wardrobes.

The following is a short description of the colours, fabrics and the characteristics that the different seasonal palettes are said to represent. Far more information can be found online or through a network of colour analysts. There will be one near you if you want to explore the subject at a deeper level. The realisation that you are cool or warm based will also have an influence on the colour of jewellery you might choose. Warm toned folk look best in golden tones and pearls. Cooler tones can wear silver well, and look great in clear coloured beads. Experiment with your collection and see what works best for you. If something just isn’t quite right, this could be the reason.

• Spring: Spring colours are clear and bright, light and gentle, think about the flowers and new growth around at this time. Patterns will be delicate and clean, not muted. Fabrics that work well with spring types are lightweight and fine textured. Spring has an urgency around it, unlike relaxed Summer.

• Summer: Summer is a quieter time, with a natural warmth and romantic flair. In nature the flowers will be bigger and the effect can be more muted. Think about the faded fabrics and muted neutrals of a chintz drawing room. Blousey florals and elegant stripes epitomise this look. Fabrics again have little texture, but more than Spring, and lack the intensity of Autumn.

• Autumn: Autumn is a strong colourful season. Think of autumn leaves, ripened fruit, and stunning sunsets. Autumn colours are warm and intense, but not at all dull. The fabrics that reflect this season are rich and textured. Heavy silk and wool. Deep stunning velvets. Imagine a warm fire at the end of the day. The richness of deeper colours without the stark contrast of winter.

• Winter: Winter folk can wear dark intense colour, and some can pull off black…not an easy feat. Winter fabrics can be dramatic and boldly patterned, but without too much texture. They can also wear clear pale colours very well. Rich velvets and sleek wool would be perfect with the addition of some ice cool toned accessories.

I am sure you will have heard of the ‘seasonal’ colour analysis, and may even have had it done. Many people find it a very useful tool to help to narrow their palette and save them time and money on shopping trips. Knowing your best palette will also mean that some of the confusion around why some items in your wardrobe don’t work together.

If you haven’t had your colours done, or want a quick reminder, look no further than the back of your hand. Can you see your veins? What colour are they? ‘Warm’ toned people will have greenish veins. ‘Cool’ toned people will have bluish veins. If you aren’t sure, put your hands together with friends and family. Some will have pink skin and blue veins, others will have more yellow based skin tones and green veins. Wearing the right tonal group will make a difference.

Once you have decided if you are warm or cool toned, then you can be pretty confident whether you are a Spring or Autumn (warm tones), or a Summer or Winter (cool tones). Spring and Summer types will suit lighter tones, while Autumn and Winter people can wear stronger deeper colours well, and might find the lighter versions a bit washed out.

RED is associated with excitement, passion, danger, energy, and action. In colour psychology, red can provoke strong emotions. It can be energising and exciting but can also be seen as threatening and triggering danger, so use it sparingly.

ORANGE is associated with enthusiasm, motivation and an increase of energy. As a colour that embraces the properties of its two constituents, physically energising red and emotional carefree yellow, it symbolises success but in a logical way. Orange always has a positive feel around it and it can draw attention to something without the urgency of red.

YELLOW is another long wavelength colour and is the easiest to see. It is a colour that is most associated with the emotional part of the brain. Sunshine thoughts, with happy, positive connotations are symbolised by yellow. What better way to lift your spirits? On the flip side, it is also associated with danger and urgency, so choose how you wear this colour carefully.

GREEN is the colour of balance and comes with the primitive reassurance that if the world around us is green, there will be a certain level of abundance. Think about lush forests, farmland and gardens providing food and shelter. The positive alternative to dry, barren and desolate landscapes, that offer nobody comfort or shelter.

BLUE is seen as being an intellectual colour and is generally regarded as the world’s favourite. It is one of the last colours to be seen on the spectrum, and where red is urgent and in your face, blue is calm and non-threatening. Blue imbues feelings of trust and stability, as well as harmony and reliability. From darkest navy to palest turquoise, there is a blue for every occasion.

PURPLE is the last colour to be seen as it has the shortest wavelength. When you think of the colour spectrum, you have hot, fast infra-red at one end, green in the middle and ultra-violet at the far end. When you study purple, you will be able to see two very different tones, so take care when mixing purple with other colours.

BLACK is a complete lack of colour, a total absence of light. It might provide a sense of authority, sophistication and elegance, or it can put up barriers. Most people use black as accessories (shoes etc), and some use it far more freely than others in their clothing colour scheme. There is a balance to be made between conveying intelligence or provoking sadness.

WHITE is obviously the opposite of black. Where black is the absence of light, white is all about light and reflection. Designs and styles using a lot of white can be seen as sleek and chic, but the downsides mean it can leave you looking too sterile and cold…think dentists and scientists.

GREY is practical, neutral, timeless and sophisticated. It can also be nothing, boring, depressing and reminiscent of old age. The difference in the message will depend mostly on the tone of grey that is used, so be very careful in your choice.

PINK comes in a myriad of tones, anything from a warm coral to a deep fuchsia can be described as being pink. It is an interesting colour because although you get light blue or dark green, pink is never described as light red. The paler the colour the more feminine it becomes. Think of it reflecting playful, nurturing qualities that are soothing and understanding.

BROWN is synonymous with comfort, support and security. It is reminiscent of nature and grounding, as well as dependability. Using dark brown is a lot softer than black but expresses much the same sort of serious gravitas.

METALLICS are indicators of confidence, innovation, luxury and modernity. With their basis in precious metals, there is obviously the connection with perceived wealth and prosperity. Using accents of gold, silver or whatever metal you choose, will add a cutting edge to what might otherwise be a rather plain outfit.